Universal Remote Codes
Your remote's code list plus the device you're programming gives you the codes to try in order, the exact programming steps for that remote, and the auto-search fallback for when no published code works.
How this tool works
Here is the thing almost every "universal remote codes" page gets wrong. There is no single list. Jasco — which makes the GE, Philips and UltraPro universal remotes you find at Walmart, Target and Amazon — publishes four different generations of code list: CL3, CL4, CL5 and CL6. The same TV brand has different codes in each one. A Samsung TV is 3301 on a CL3 remote and 5791 on a CL5. So a code copied off a site that does not ask which list you have is a coin flip, and that is the single most common reason a "correct" code does nothing.
Your code list version is printed inside the battery compartment — under the batteries or on the inside of the cover — as CL3, CL4, CL5 or CL6. Thirty seconds with a fingernail saves twenty minutes of typing codes that cannot work. This tool asks for it first, and everything else follows from it.
The codes and both procedures come from the manufacturer. We take them from Jasco's own support pages: the direct-code-entry list and steps at byjasco.com/pages/universal-remote-codes, and the auto-code-search procedure at byjasco.com/pages/auto-code-search. The steps are reproduced as written, including the details that matter — that the indicator is a separate light on some remotes and the power button on others, that auto search sends codes in batches of ten, that VOL UP steps forward through a batch and VOL DOWN steps back, and that you must press the same device button again to actually store a code you found.
What we deliberately do not do: reproduce the whole code book. An individual setup code is a fact about how a device answers an infrared command. A complete code list is somebody's compilation. So this page ships a curated subset — the device brands US households actually own, capped at the first four codes for each remote-and-device pair, which is exactly what the published procedure tells you to try in order — and every result links to Jasco's own complete list for anything we do not cover. The procedure and the escalation logic are the value here, not a scraped table.
The older lists genuinely cannot do some jobs. CL3 predates soundbars and streaming players and has no category for either. If that is your remote and your device, no published code exists, and we say so and send you straight to auto code search rather than offering a plausible-looking number from the wrong category. That is a real limitation of the remote, not of this page.
Partial matches are the trap after that. Several codes will power a TV on and off while only one drives the menu, the inputs and the volume. Jasco's own note says it plainly: some codes operate only a few functions. So the instruction here is to keep testing further codes even after one appears to work — check power, volume, channel and the menu button before you decide you are done.
And sometimes the answer is that it will never work. Streaming players with voice remotes, and a lot of soundbars, use Bluetooth or Wi-Fi rather than infrared, and no infrared universal remote can control those at any code. Many soundbars only take volume over HDMI-CEC from the TV, in which case the right move is to program the TV and let it pass volume through. We would rather tell you that than have you work through 200 codes.
Other remote brands. RCA, One For All, Xfinity, Spectrum, DIRECTV, DISH and Roku all use entirely different code sets or on-screen pairing, and we do not guess at codes we cannot cite. Pick "I don't know / a different brand" and the tool tells you which manufacturer's list to go to and how that family programs instead.
Published GE / Philips / UltraPro setup codes — and how they change between code-list generations
| Device | Brand | CL3 codes | CL4 codes | CL5 codes | CL6 codes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| TV | Samsung | 3301, 5471, 5521, 2741 | 5791, 5801, 3301 | 5791, 5801, 3301 | 5791, 5801, 3301 |
| TV | LG | 0001, 5511, 3001, 5501 | 6021, 0001, 5511, 3001 | 6021, 0001, 5511, 3001 | 6021, 5511, 0001, 3001 |
| TV | Vizio | 5631, 5561, 5611, 1471 | 5611, 5631, 5561, 6121 | 5631, 5611, 5561, 6471 | 5631, 5611, 5561, 6471 |
| TV | TCL | 2851, 0091, 1421, 1691 | 6171, 5961, 6031, 5771 | 6171, 5961, 6031, 5771 | 6171, 5961, 6031, 6651 |
| TV | Hisense | 2081, 5331, 2211, 4671 | 6161, 1651, 6171, 2081 | 6161, 1651, 6251, 6171 | 6161, 1651, 6251, 6171 |
| TV | Sony | 5321, 4981, 1071, 1641 | 1071, 5811, 5321, 4981 | 1071, 5811, 5321, 4981 | 1071, 5811, 5321, 4981 |
| TV | Insignia (Best Buy) | 2891, 0371, 2271, 0581 | 0921, 2891, 6171, 0371 | 2891, 0371, 6381, 6171 | 2891, 0371, 6381, 6171 |
| TV | onn. (Walmart) | — | 5961 | 5961, 6431 | 5961, 6431, 6171, 6551 |
| TV | Toshiba | 1311, 5531, 2691, 3211 | 1311, 5531, 2691, 0211 | 1311, 5531, 1121, 2691 | 1311, 5531, 1121, 2691 |
| Soundbar | Samsung | no such category | 0526, 0686, 1036 | 0526, 0686, 1036 | 0526, 0686, 1036 |
| Soundbar | LG | no such category | 0696, 1846 | 0696, 1846 | 0696, 1846 |
| Soundbar | Vizio | no such category | 0666, 1866 | 0666, 1866 | 0666, 1866 |
| Soundbar | TCL | no such category | — | — | 2266, 2276 |
| Soundbar | Hisense | no such category | — | — | 3076, 2746 |
| Soundbar | Sony | no such category | 1456, 0416, 0536, 0856 | 1456, 0416, 0536, 0856 | 1456, 0536, 0416, 1876 |
| Soundbar | Insignia (Best Buy) | no such category | 0416, 0246, 0336, 1246 | 0416, 0246, 0336, 1246 | 0416, 0246, 0336, 1246 |
| Soundbar | Roku | no such category | — | — | 2236 |
| Soundbar | onn. (Walmart) | no such category | — | 2106, 2116 | 2106, 2116, 2316, 2326 |
| Soundbar | Toshiba | no such category | 1806 | 1806 | 1806 |
| Streaming box or stick | Samsung | no such category | 2345, 2725, 0075 | 2345, 2725, 0075 | 2345, 2725, 0075 |
| Streaming box or stick | LG | no such category | 4285, 1684, 2635, 2335 | 4285, 1684, 2635, 2335 | 4285, 1684, 2635, 2335 |
| Streaming box or stick | Vizio | no such category | 1754 | 1754 | 1754 |
| Streaming box or stick | Sony | no such category | 2004, 1674, 1894 | 2004, 1674, 1894 | 2004, 1674, 1894 |
| Streaming box or stick | Roku | no such category | 2014, 4395, 0903 | 2014, 4395, 0903 | 2014, 0903, 2894 |
FAQ
How do I find the code for my universal remote?
Start by finding out which code list your remote uses, because that decides everything else. On a GE, Philips or UltraPro remote — all made by Jasco — open the battery compartment and look under the batteries or inside the cover for CL3, CL4, CL5 or CL6. Then look up your device brand in that generation's list, not a generic one: the same Samsung TV is code 3301 on a CL3 remote and 5791 on a CL5. Enter it by holding SETUP until the red light comes on, pressing the device button (TV, CBL, DVD, AUD), then typing the 4-digit code — the light goes out when it is accepted.
Why isn't my universal remote code working?
In order of how often it is the cause: you have a code from the wrong code-list generation (CL3 codes do not work on a CL5 remote and vice versa); the batteries are weak, which is sneaky because the indicator light still comes on but the transmission is too weak to program; you are too far away or off-axis from the device's receiver window; you tried only the first code when the list has several; or the device is not infrared at all. Work through those five before you conclude the remote is faulty.
What are the 4-digit codes for a Samsung TV?
It depends on your remote's code list, which is exactly the point. On the GE/Philips/UltraPro family the published codes are 3301, 5471, 5521 and 2741 on a CL3 remote, and 5791, 5801 and 3301 on CL5 and CL6 remotes. Note that 3301 appears in both generations, which is why it is the code you see quoted everywhere — but it is not the first code to try on a newer remote. Select your list version above and the tool gives you the right order.
What is auto code search on a universal remote?
It is a brute-force walk through every code stored in the remote, rather than the published subset — the fallback for when no listed code works. Turn the device on manually, hold SETUP until the light comes on, press the device button, then point at the device and press POWER: the remote fires 10 codes in sequence and the light blinks once per code. If the device switches off, one of those 10 is right, and you press VOL UP repeatedly (about 3 seconds apart) to re-send them one at a time until it switches off again. Then press the same device button to store it. If the device did not switch off, turn it back on and press POWER again for the next 10.
The remote turns my TV on and off but nothing else works. Why?
You have the wrong code with the right power command, which is extremely common — power codes are shared across far more devices than menu and input commands. Jasco says it directly: some codes operate only a few device functions. Do not stop at the first code that does anything. Test power, volume, channel and the menu button on each code, and keep working down the list until one drives all four. If nothing in the published list gets you the menu, run auto code search, which covers codes not in the printed subset.
Can a universal remote control a soundbar or a streaming stick?
Only if it is an infrared device, and increasingly they are not. Streaming players with voice remotes talk over Bluetooth or Wi-Fi, and no infrared universal remote can control them at any code — the brand's own replacement remote is the only option. Soundbars are a mix: many accept infrared volume, but plenty only take volume over HDMI-CEC or optical from the TV. If yours is one of those, program the TV and let the TV pass volume through to the bar. Also note that the older CL3 code list has no soundbar or streaming category at all.
Are universal remote codes the same for every brand of remote?
No, and that is the biggest misconception here. Codes are specific to the remote's own internal database, not to the device. A code for a GE remote means nothing on an RCA, a One For All, an Xfinity XR or a Spectrum remote — different lengths, different numbers, different systems. Xfinity, DIRECTV and DISH remotes mostly do not use a code book at all; they pair the TV through an on-screen setup menu, which is easier and more reliable. Always start from the remote's own manufacturer.
Do I need the original remote to program a universal one?
No for the code method and no for auto code search — both work with the device switched on and nothing else. Only "learning" remotes, which copy commands one button at a time from an original by pointing the two at each other, need the old remote, and those are a different and much rarer product. If your original is lost, the code method is exactly the tool for the job.